We listened to and translated the Instagram posts of the Brazilian master Liliane Morais for you. We hope that this Brazilian look will be useful in your work.
Main clippings:
GLYOXYLIC ACID (ACIDO GLIOXILICO) DOES FORMOL WHEN HEATED?
Rumor has it that a small amount is released, but there is no exact data on how much and at what temperature.
CAUCASUS HAIR IS THE HARDEST TO STRAIGHTEN?
Yes, in regions such as Japan, India, the most difficult hair is found, it is much harder to straighten it than, for example, Afro.
They need a special approach.
IS IT NEEDED TO RINSE OUT 100% COMPOSITION?
Yes need! Because if you leave the product, it will have absolutely no effect, rather it will create smoke.
SHGO- IS IT POSSIBLE TO LEAVE FOR A FEW MINUTES WHAT IT WOULD ACT?
Yes, since the shampoo works 5 minutes after application.
HOW MANY DAYS AFTER THE STRAIGHTENING CAN YOUR CLIENT SWIMMING IN THE POOL?
After a week, but be sure to use a protector or chelating product before and after use.
IS IT POSSIBLE TO DO HAIR CARE BEFORE STRAIGHTENING?
Yes! If the hair is weakened, then you even need to do a cold restoration or a chronogram, just do not close the hair cuticle. Care period: 7-15 days before the straightening procedure.
WHAT PERCENT % OF ACID SHOULD BE IN NANOPLASTIC?
35% (low content) -40% (medium) -45% (large amount) - if it is less or more, then this product will need to be handled in a special way. Basically, if the acid comes at the very beginning of the composition, in second or third place, then this is your product.
PHOTONS, PISTOLS, LEADS - DO THEY IMPROVE THE WORK OF THE COMPOSITION?
In truth, they do not interfere, but the compositions as a whole can themselves work without them. Some research scientists about these accessories,
We have not found.
IS IT POSSIBLE TO APPLY NANOPLASTY ON BLONDE?
Yes, but very carefully! But keep the temperature no more than 210, and the % composition of the acid in the product should not exceed 40%. There is no single technique, will depend on the product, hair.
IS IT POSSIBLE TO STRAIGHTEN HAIR WITH NANOPLASTICS AFTER COLORING?
NO! first comes straightening, then staining. Deadline: from 48 hours, but it is best to keep a deadline of 7 days. PS: we are talking about paints with the composition: Sodium, Guanidine, Thioglycolate.
WHICH PART OF THE HAIR SHOULD BE TESTED FOR ALLERGY OR PRODUCT EFFECTS?
At the very top of the crown, inside the hair, a thin strand.
IN HOW MANY MONTHS DO I NEED TO COME TO REFRESH THE ROOTS?
Approximately 2.5-3 months, depending on the client's hair and hair growth rate. During this time, the hair can grow by 3-4 cm. We straighten the roots, do not apply to the area where the composition was already, otherwise you will achieve a weakening of the hair. Some clients do 1-2 months a year.
HOW LONG DOES THE COMPOSITION OF NANOPLASTICS KEEP?
30 to 60 minutes is enough. There is absolutely no point in keeping more. But you definitely need to do a strand test, from 30 to 40 minutes, even then it will be clear how much you keep.
IS YOUR IRON INTERFERING YOU TO MAKE A GOOD STRAIGHTENING?
Your iron must keep the temperature constant! It is very important! If your iron does not hold and the temperature fluctuates, then you will never straighten your hair properly.
IF THE HAIR GOT DIRTY DURING STRAIGHTENING?
If it is dark hair - 48 hours after that I dye it and there are no problems
Blond - then wash your hair again, apply a mattizer mask.
IS IT POSSIBLE TO DO STRAIGHTENING AFTER COVID? There are a lot of complaints after Covid, so there are complaints about hair loss, is it possible to do hot straightening?! We do not recommend doing it, wait a bit, advise the client to detox the scalp, let the blood exchange recover, then chronogram care. And only after that, after a complete restoration of hot appliances.
WHAT TO DO IF THE HAIR HAS BEEN STRAIGHTENING AS A RESULT OF THE STRAIGHTENING PROCEDURE? - immediately reduce the temperature of the iron, quickly begin to moisturize: apply keratin, dry. Very important! Wash your hair in the salon under your supervision and offer a hair restoration service (maybe even free). In no case do not send the client home with advice, like applying a moisturizing mask, do everything in the salon.
THERE ARE CASES THAT THE HAIR IS VERY THICK AND NANOPLASTY DOES NOT TAKE IT, WHAT TO DO?! IS THERE A SECRET? sometimes you see that when you run the iron, the hair does not straighten. What to do?! First: leave the product on the hair for more than 40 minutes, leave for an hour. Rinse off completely. Dry completely 100%. And reapply the composition! Yes, yes 2 times in one time! The second time it is no longer necessary to withstand 60 minutes, 30 is enough.
HOW TO MOISTURIZE BLONDE HAIR THAT HAS PASSED THE STRAIGHTENING PROCEDURE?! Ideal care: after straightening immediately apply oil, your favorite moisturizing mask, a week later undergo a cauterization course. It is very important to MOISTURIZE!
DOES PRODUCT VISCOSITY AFFECT PERFORMANCE? yes, if you apply a product with a high viscosity, it will dry faster on the hair and this will prevent the composition from penetrating into the hair cortex. Therefore, be careful.
WHICH ACID REALLY STRAIGHTENS HAIR? In the composition of nanoplastics, you will find many acids: Latico, tanino, healuoronico, glioxílico, sestaina, proliss. What really straightens is glioxílico. All other amino acids provide additional care effect.
Acido lactico - gives shine, moisturizes the hair, but does not straighten the hair. Geauloronics - moisturizes. Lipotina - does not straighten. So, we can conclude that 90% of all nanoplastics contain glyoxylic acid, it straightens all other ingredients - this is marketing. In fact, there is only one formula on the market, everything else depends on the brand and the reputation of the brand. Some put in cheaper ingredients, some more expensive ones.
MY MAIN SECRETS DURING THE STRAIGHTENING PROCEDURE: 1. Listen to the client's story. 2. Know absolutely everything about your product. 3. Cleansing - the main thing is to properly clean before the main procedure. 4. The form of application of the composition. You need to develop your own style of application. Do not save on the amount of the product, do not use vinagra, soda and other bad advice). 5. Care for hair before, during and after the procedure.6. Be sure to test for strands.
AFRO HAIR THAT HAS A CURLS FROM THE ROOT? HOW TO STRAIGHTEN IT? it is very important to understand that this hair is mostly dry and overdried, and therefore hairdressers do not like it. The most important secret, they need to be moisturized, always apply more composition 2 than you usually do, always watch that this hair is not dry. And usually, I don't use concentrate products as they dry out quickly on the hair. And during the exposure pause, I check that there is a sufficient amount of product on this hair.
WHEN YOU MAKE A MOISTURIZING CHRONOGRAPH, WHICH SHAMPOO SHOULD YOU USE? be sure to SHGO, do not use a moisturizing shampoo.
CAN VINAGRE BE USED BEFORE STEP2? - no. I don't use this product because already many masks contain acidifiers and it reduces hair moisture even more.
WHAT WILL HAPPEN IF YOU DO NOT DO THE TEST ON THE STRAIGHT? - it's like guessing on coffee grounds, you take a risk. I have two hands for testing hair. Do it on the 1st strand, and even better on 2-3 in different parts of the head.
CHELATIVE DETOX - what is this product for? For neutralization and removal of metals. But be careful, you need to choose the right product, the composition should be EDTA. It is this ingredient, in addition to conservation, that performs the function of a neutralizer.
WHAT WILL HELP A BLOND WITH NANOPLASTY NOT YELLOW? I do not adhere to such a method as lowering the temperature, this will not help. I work with nanoplastics that color, which contains the ingredient VIOLET 43, this is the best mattizer.
IS IT POSSIBLE TO DO MINING, BLEACHING THE SAME DAY WITH STRAIGHTENING NANOPLASTICS? - No, you can’t, not only do you understand ph 12-13, when bleaching, you also get and 2p open the hair cuticle: the first time during bleaching, the second during applying the composition nano, this is a trauma. Usually the minimum interval is 15 days between treatments. And first, we do discoloration, then straightening.
IS IT NECESSARY TO WASH HAIR AFTER APPLICATION OF NANOPLASTICS? If you are not yet a very experienced master, and you do not have 100% confidence in the result, then be sure to wash off using a conditioner! If you are a pro like me, then I send home without a flush)
WHY BLOND, WHICH IS NOT LIGHTENED AND NOT DISCOLORED, YELLOW? - why is this happening, because there is no pigment on the hair, ?! there is an oxidation of amino acids, the so-called "Maillard effect", it is not the hair that turns yellow, the acid turns yellow from temperature. Choose the right ingredients.
WHAT DO YOU SAY ABOUT FLUSHING OUT OF NANOPLASTICS, IT SHOULD BE 100% WASHED OUT, 80%, 60% WHAT DEPENDS ON? I always wash off absolutely all nanoplastics 100%, since product residues spoil the hair even more, there will be even more opening of pores and split ends.
WHEN A CUSTOMER WASHES HAIR EVERY DAY, DOES HE RINSE THE PRODUCT FASTER FASTER THAN ONE WHO WASHES LESSER? No, of course, if you have already straightened, then the product is on the client's hair forever!
FOR A CLIENT WHO HAS RECENTLY BEEN STARving AND NOW LOSSING A LOT OF HAIR, CAN WE GET A STRAIGHTENING? Usually people on a diet, they have a very large lack of vitamins. I send such clients first to the doctor for tests to replenish vitamins, then for cold hair restoration, scalp detox, chronogram, and only then for reconstruction.
WHAT IS A NANOQUERTING CARE PROCEDURE IN GENERAL? First you need to understand that for a start the client needs this procedure, if it is not needed, but you do it, then there will be no effect. In general, this procedure is similar to wound healing, the wound dries up and tightens during healing. The hair from the procedures weakens and holes form there. The keratin found in querting products fills these holes and makes the hair uniform. But it is best to fill the cracks with a temperature of 200g. Can be done after nanoplasty, after bleaching.
IS IT POSSIBLE TO APPLY NANOPLASTY IF THE CLIENT'S HAIR HAS BEEN STRAIGHTENED WITH KERATIN EARLIER? Generally speaking, are these procedures compatible, then yes, they are compatible. Your client will not go bald. But this is the most extreme case, if there is no other way out and everything will depend on the condition of the hair. Test for strands and very carefully (I would not risk it) with bleached hair.
IS IT POSSIBLE TO COMB HAIR WHILE YOU DO NANOPLASTY? No! You open the hair cuticle, it is restored only after 7 days, and it turns out that you injure the hair structure even more. Let your hair rest, do not touch it with a comb.
IS IT POSSIBLE TO DO NANOPLASTY ON DRY HAIR? Let's first understand what is dry hair in general? Do not confuse with dry hair - this is hair that is not greasy. Dry hair adore silicones and oils, they become more shiny. On overdried hair, such simple care will not work. Tk hair overdried, go along with porosity. There are many reasons: 1) maybe there is not enough water inside. 2) improper care after nanoplasty (it is advisable to do hair cauterization after 7 days) and the client usually uses a lot of oils, they accumulate and the hair is greasy. . 2) be sure to massage that the detox worked. 2) then we need lipids for hydration, in our case the lipids will be fatty acids. They will retain moisture inside the hair and create a barrier. So: is it possible to do nano on overdried hair? Not! You need to drink from. A week before straightening, we replenish with fatty acids, but pay attention! No warm temperatures, maximum you can use a vaporizer.
HAIR GOES TO NANOPLASTICS AND CHEMISTRY DOES NOT WORK AS WELL AS THE FIRST TIME? No, of course, you can't get used to chemistry. If nano has ceased to work, change the manner of care and application. But not the product itself.
BOTOX AND NANOPLASTY- Do I need to apply exactly the same amount? No, less Botox. Nano should not be spared, there should be a lot of product so that there is no drying.
DO NANOPLASTY AND BOTOX MOISTURIZE HAIR? No, Botox and Nano are chemistry, this is a treatment of the hair structure, not moisturizing.
